
But this will only become noticeable after the 3853's are broken in (~25 hours of playing). This means you will have too much midbass for your nearfield and HT situations. Lastly, Zaph designed in 4db of baffle step compensation. I would mount the port on the side, ensuring the interior end is more than 1 diameter from anything else. Your net tuning will be a little lower than desired. Flush mounting is far more important with tweeters but you could have a little more raggedness in the midrange.Ĭhanging the port location does have an impact on the port length because you've placed it within 1 diameter of the bottom. But they don't surface mount as "nicely" as the 1853. I used the 3853 in an MTM, pair with the Vifa DQ25, and they play very nicely. Peerless 830667 Woofer Enclosure (with a bracing idea sketch) ZBM4 Back Brace and Ported Enclosure Side View ZBM4 Baffle and Sealed Enclosure Side View There certainly are a lot of pieces to cut for 11 boxes! Starting that tomorrow or on my Monday holiday. We chopped up the plywood today with a circular saw and created smaller and more manageable pieces for our newly made panel cutting sled. The backs of the ZBM4 enclosures will be removable. Went to the wood store today for 2 sheets of 3/4" douglas fir marine plywood ($188.36) and a slab of douglas fir lumber is on the way via UPS from Oregon to Texas ($53.99) to mill solid 1/2" lumber for the face of the 2-piece baffles. ZBM4 ported version 4.8 liters tuned about 55 Hz ZBM4 sealed version 3 liters F3 about 93Hz If I've done my drawings and calculations right here's the size and tuning for the enclosures. That will maybe help when finally setting everything up in the room, well at least give me some placement options without too much hassle. Got a good deal on some 1.0 mH inductors. I'm building the crossovers with terminal strips installed so I can switch back and forth between the original crossover design and the reduced BSC option. 2 woofers for the 5.2 system are Peerless 830667 SLS 8" subwoofers. I'll be using the MCM 55-3853 cast frame woofers. I've been collecting parts here and there new and used for a while to get these done. That's why the sealed version for him and there may be some special tuning in room to get them dialed in for his listening pleasure. My dad (he'll celebrate 82 soon) has some pretty bad hearing problems-mainly when there is complex or high amplitude low frequency information. I temporarily stepped the masts in the hull for the photos.Building a 5.2 system (5 ZBM4s sealed and 2 sealed woofers) for a small room, a 2.0 system (2 ZBM4s sealed) for my dad's stereo AV system, and a 2.0 system (2 ZBM4s ported) for near field listening at a computer. I plan on bringing the rigging to the same point as that on the fore mast then I will move on to the Mizzen. This afternoon I will attach them to the fighting top and prepare the rings to accept the bentnick rigging. This morning I stropped the 10 lower deadeyes and cleaned out the holes through the main masts's fighting top. The lower shrouds are served to the mast and I have started working on the deadeyes for the futtock shrouds. I serve the others 2 ¼" down from the centerline of the mast. I have served all the lines, the forward most fully served on each side. I now have started the rigging on the main mast. This aligns the shrouds and prepares them for the ratlines to be installed latter. I used CA to hold this to the shrouds just below the cross tree on the forward mast. I took a small 10mm piece of brass wire and wrapped it with black thread. I have all the rebuilt cross trees installed and the rigging on the fore mast back to where I was. I did not find it in the AOS but I do have it on the plans from the Constitution's site so I will proceed with them. I still have to draw up the mizzen's cross tree.


Small setback, but I could not live with the mistake and I get to use my new toy, the Excalibur Scroll saw that just arrived. Once I have the alignment issues and the new cross trees installed I will start working on the rigging again. I took them into DeltaCAD today and drew them up and scaled them. I have since picked up the AOS so I will rebuild them with those plans. The plans also had the transverse members made out of straight strips rather than curved as they should be. The kit did not have the length of the transverse members shown so I guessed at it. I also am using the opportunity to rebuild the last cross trees. The mast was straight, so I need to adjust the caps I suspect. I had not choice but to remove the rigging and take apart the mast to fix the alignment issue. So I should leave the slack in the lines to perform the final adjustments once the lower shrouds are set? That makes sense.Īs it turns out last night I was looking at the fore mast and noticed that there was a twist in the mast caps that were too far out of alignment for me to leave them like that.
